Buttonhole-sewing machine



7 SheetsSheet l. J. O. GOODWIN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MAGHINE.

(No Model) Paiented June 28 lllllllll' THE NDRRIS PETERS co, Pnmmu'mnuwAsQ mcTom p c 7 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

J. O. GOODWIN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

Patented Jun-e 28 (No Model.) 7 Shets-Sheeb 3. J. O. GOOD'WIN.BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE. No. 606,204. Patented June 28, 1898.-

(No Model.) Y 7 Shets-Sheet 4;

-J. G. GOODWIN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 606,204. Patented June 28, 1898.

HI IIHIHII HIHIIIIIHHN 7 Sheets sheet 5.

(No Model.)

J. G. GOODWIN. .BU-TTONHOLB SEWING MACHINE.

Patented June 28 ms nonms PETERS co, PHOT LITrgQWyvAsHmnmMO. c

7 Sheets-Sheet 6.

(No Model.)

J. 0. GOODWIN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

Patented June 28, 1898.

. Ewe/Mow Julius 0. Gouda/Jill Unrrnn I STATES PATEN much.

. BUTTONHOLE-SEWING 'lVIACH-lNE.

SPECIFICATION forming art of Letters Patent No. 606,204, dated June 28,1898.

Application filed December 29, 1893- Serial No. 495,046. (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, JULIUSG.:GOODXV1N, of Philadelphia, in the county ofPhiladelphia and State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Buttonhole-Stitchin g Machines, of which thefollowside, then the second bar across the other end, the stitchingterminating at the point where it commenced, and finally cuts thebuttonhole-slit, the entire operation from the initial stitch toandincluding the cutting of the slit being continuous and whollyautomatic.

The present improved machine accomplishes the desired result andperforms the indicated operation by a number of cooperating groups ofinstrumentalities.

The machine includes, first, stitching mechanism comprising a needleabove the work and a shuttle or loop-taker beneath the same, similar tothe corresponding parts of an ordinary family or other sewing-machine,except that the needle-bar has a vibratory as well as arectilinearly-reciprocating movement, the vibratory movement determiningthe bight of the stitches; second, work clamping and feeding mechanismwhich feeds the work back and forth in the direction of the length ofthe buttonhole while the straight sides of the buttonhole are beingstitched and which feeds the work to and fro at right angles to thegeneral direction of the feed while the bars are being stitched; third,cutting mechanism for cutting the buttonhole-slit after the stiching hasbeen completed; fourth, stopping niechanism for automatically stoppingthe machine when a buttonhole is completed and for enabling the machineto be stopped at any time at the will of the operator; fifth,tension-release mechanism whereby the tension on the thread isautomatically released when the workis to be moved for stitching a newbuttonhole or for other purposes; sixth, quick-motion mechanism enablingthe work to be fed rapidly by hand to any desired position-ets, forexample, when the thread has broken-and, seventh, adjusting mechanismfor regulating the length of the buttonhole, the bight of each stitch,the number of stitches per inch, and the distance between the twostraight sides of the buttonhole.

The present invention consists in the imthe front portion of theoverhanging arm being removed. Fig. 3 is a front view, the faceplatebeing removed. Figs. 4, 5, and 6 are detail perspective views of thework-clamp. Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic view illustrating the operation ofthe needle. Fig. 8 is a view looking toward the rear or inner face ofthe needle-bracket and illustrating the mechanji'sm for oscillating theneedle-bar laterally. Fig. 9 is a central vertical section of the partsshown in Fig. 8. Figs. 10, 11, and 12 are detail views of the adjustingmeans for changing the bight 'of the stitches. Fig. 13 is a detailviewof a special cam employed. Fig; 141s a'view, partly in section,looking toward the front side of the standard and illustrating theinitial operating mechanism forfeeding the work. Fig. 15 is a centralVertical section of the principal parts illustrated in Fig. 14. Fig.16is a plan view of the disk which carries the m ech anism employed forconvertinguniform cir cular movement into uniform reciprocatingmovement. Fig. 17 is a vertical section of the parts shown in Fig. 16,the cam-stud be ing also shown in place. Fig. 18 is a detail verticalsection of the connections between the work-carrier and the lever whichimme- 'ICO ' ting mechanism.

diately operates it. Fig. 19 is a detail plan view of the mechanism forfeeding the work laterally during the formation of the bars. Fig. 20illustrates parts in detail of the same mechanism. 'Figs. 21, 22, 23,and 24 are diagrams illustrating the portions of the feeding mechanismwhich convert uniform circular motion into uniform reciprocatingmovement. Fig. 25 is a detail front view of the cutting mechanism. Fig.26 is an underneath View of the operating mechanism for the cut- Fig. 27is a partly-diagrammatic rear view of the machine, partly in section,illustrating the stop-motion. Figs. 28 and 29 are detail views ofportions of the stopping mechanism. Figs. 30 and 31 are detail views ofthe tension-release. Fig. 32 is a view of the completed buttonhole. Fig.is a diagram illustrating the formation of the butof the needle-bar.

tonhole.

Figs. 1, 2, 3, 14, 15,27, 30, and 31 are drawn to a standard scaleindicated on Sheet 1. Figs. 7, 32, and 33 are not drawn to ascale. Figs.21, 22, 23, and 24 are drawn to a scale three times as large as thestandard scale. The remaining figures are drawn to a scale one and ahalf times as large as the standard scale.

A is the bed-plate of the machine, upon which all of the other parts aremounted. B is the upright hollow standard. 0 is the overhanging arm. Dis the needle-bracket. E is the main horizontal drive-shaft. F is thedrive-pulley on the main shaft, and G is the rotary loop-taker orshuttle-shaft located beneath the bed-plate, which receives rotarymotion from the main shaft by wellknown intervening mechanism locatedwithin the standard B, which is not illustrated because well known. Allof these'parts, except as hereinafter specified, are or may be of anywell-known construction-such as, for example, that of the Standardsewing-machine.

The stitch-formz'n g mec7tcmism.The shuttle or loop-taker is carried onthe front end of the shuttle-shaft G, and since it possesses no noveltyand since any known loop-taker or shuttle mechanism may be employed itis not shown. The needle a is carried by a needle-bar H, which is givenavertical rectilinear reciprocation in the usual manner by a link I),connected to a crank-pin 0 upon a disk at the front end of the mainshaft E. In addition to this rectilinear movement the needle bar has alateral vibratory movement-that is to say, it swings back and forth inavertical plane which is at right angles to the axis of the shaft E. Theaperture in the top of the needle-bracket, through which the upper endof the needle projects, is sufficiently large to permit the lateralvibration This lateral vibration is so timed that the needle passesthrough the work and throughthe eye d in the bed-plate at a given pointat one descent, and then at the next succeeding descent of theneedle-bar the needle passes through the work and the eye at atadifferent point, the eye at being elongated for this purpose. Thismovement of the needle is indicated in Fig. 7, wherein d is theelongated eye, and a a are the two positions in which the needlepassesalternately through the eye.- tween these two positions a 03determines the bight of each stitch at the buttonhole.

The mechanism for laterally vibrating the needle-bar is as follows: I isa short shaft parallel with and directly beneath the front end of themain shaft, Figs. 1, 8, and 9. This shaft has on its rear end a pinione, which meshes directly with a pinion f on the main shaft, having halfthe number of cogs, so that the shaft I is rotated once for each tworotations of the main shaft. 011 its front end the shaft I carries atwo-cornered cam J, (see Fig. 8,) which occupies an open slot or fork gin the upper end of a lever K, which at its lower end is pivoted bymeans of a pivot-stud h to suitable devices, hereinafter moreparticularly described, carried by the bracket D. The needle-bar passesthrough an oscillating collar L, Fig. 9, to which-is rigidly secured apintle 2', which is free to rock or oscillate in a sleeve M. This sleeveis connected by a groove j and pin with a slide N, which slidesrectilinearly in a horizontal path at right angles to the axis of themain shaft E in suitable guides formed in the rear of the bracket D andby guide-screws Z. Immediately back of the slide N, encircling thesleeve M, is an annular bearing-ring m, which is located in a circularaperture in the lever K. At its extreme rear end the sleeve M isscrewthreaded to receive a retaining-nut a. At

- each revolution of the auxiliary shaft I the lever K is oscillatedback and forth on its pivot 77.. As the lever thus moves back and forthlaterally it carries with it the sleeve M, slide N, collar L, andconsequently the needle-bar H. The collar L, since its pintle rockswithin the-sleeve M, compensates for the oscillation of theneedle-bar,which swings through a minute arc on the pivot between it andthe link I). The function of the sleeve M is thus to form a bearing forthe collar Land also to connect the lever K with the slide N and thecollar L. The two-cornered cam J gives a complete oscillation to thelever K at each revolution of the shaft 1. The cam has (see Fig. 13) amajor dwell 21 and a minor dwell 22 at different radial distances fromthe axis, and these are connected bytwo abrupt inclines or corners 2323. Consequently the oscillation in either direction imparted by thecorners 23 is quickly effected. By means of the cam Jthe oscillation oflever K and consequent] y the lateral vibrations of the needlebar occurwhen the needle is out of the work. Since the main shaft E rotates twiceas fast as the auxiliary shaft I, the needle-bar is moved in onedirection during one of its complete rectilinear reciprocations and ismoved The distance be- ICC in the opposite direction during the nextrectilinear reciprocation, and in this manner the desired resultsindicated in Fig. 7 are effected.

Workclamping mechanism, (see Figs. 2,

l, 5, and 6.)The work-clamp is mounted on a carrier 0 and consists oftwo jaws P and Q. The lower jaw P is rigidly connected with the carrier0 and rests directly on the upper surface of the bed-plate A. The lowerjaw is a flat plate having a central rectangular slot at longer than thelongest buttonhole to be made and wider than the extreme width of thewidest buttonhole and its stitches. The upper jaw Q is a rectangularframe having serrations or teeth on the lower edges of its longitudinalbars and having a central rectangular opening 0 longer and wider thanthe longest and widest buttonhole to be made, including its stitches.The lower clamping edges of the upper. jaw are Wholly within the slot atof the lower jaw, so that when no work is in place the clamping edges ofthe upper jaw come in contact with the upper face of the bed-plate. Theupper jaw is supported as follows: R is a bracket rigidly secured to thework-clamp carrier 0, and it has at its upper outer end afowardly-projecting pintle 1). Upon this pintle a rocking frame S isjournaled so as to swing up and down. This frame has on its inner end aboss or stud q, upon which is journaled a fork T, which rocks up anddown in a plane at right angles to the length of the frame S. The jaw Qis pivoted to and between the arms of the fork '1 by pivot-pins r '1',which allow the jaw to swing thereon. The pivot-pins and stud 'r r and qconstitute a universal or gimbal joint for the upper jaw, so that it canaccommodate itself to irregularities in the work. The upper jaw Q, isnormally clamped and held firmly down upon the work by a flat spring U,secured at its rear end to the carrier O and bearing down at its frontend upon a pin upon the fork T immediately belowthe pivot-stud q. Thetension of the spring U is regulated by a screw 25. Thepivotingpintle 1) permits the jaw Q to rise and fall to accommodateitself to different thicknesses of material and at the same time allowsthe rocking frame S to be swung upwardly, so as to lift the jaw-Qentirely free from the work in order to enable the work to be inserted,removed, or shifted from one buttonhole to the next. The rocking frame Shas a manipulatin g-handle V, which can be operated by hand, but whichis preferably connected with a treadle, so that it may be worked byfoot,

thus leaving both hands of the operator free ,rier O, has two movements,one a step-bystep lengthwise back-and-forth movement in the direction ofthe axis of the drive-shaft E and of the length of the slots n 0 in theclampjaws and at right angles to the lateral vibration of the needle,and the other a step-by-step lateral to-and-fro movement at right anglesthereto. The operation of the work-carrier and its cooperation with theneedle will'be readily understood by reference to the diagram Fig. 33.When the buttonhole is to be commenced, the carrier occupies itsposition nearest the standard B. The first stitch made is the stitch 10,which is formed by the needle first entering the cloth at the point inthe line 24 24 and then at its next descent at the point in the line 2525. The carrier then moves forward a step, carrying with it the cloth,so that at the next two descents 'of' the needle the stitch 10 isformed, and so on until the first straight side to (see Fig. 32) iscompleted, the travel of the cloth being indicated by the arrow 26.WVhen the first straight side is completed, the longitudinal movement ofthe carrier ceases and its lateral step-by-step movement commences inthe direction of arrow 27. During the lateral movement of the carrier,since the needle maintains its regular movement, the successivebar-stitches 00' m are formed overlying each other and constituting thefirst bar 00. (See Fig. 32.) The lateral movement of the carrier thenceases and it commences its second longitudinal movement in a backwarddirection opposite to the first or forward direction. The lastbar-stitch .25 constitutes the first stitch of the second straight sidey, which is formed in exactly the same manner as the first straightside, except that the work is fed in the opposite direction. When thecarrier has moved backward exactly as far as it moved forward,

' its backward longitudinal movement ceases,

The last stitch is formed just IIO' cated in diagram Fig. 33, since theywould tend to confuse the same. The zigzag character is indicated,however, in Fig. 32. It will be noted that all of the stitches in bothsides and in the bars are just alike.

The longitudinal and lateral movements of the work-carrier are effectedin the following manner: The carrier 0 has a bottom plate WV,providedwith guide-flanges u it, between which the carrier slides backand forth. The plate W itself slides laterally on the bedplate A,suitable devices, such as studs 1) 41, secured to the bed-plate andentering slots in the plate WV, guiding the same. The initial of thework-carrier by a link 58.

pies an open slot or fork 28 in the upper end of a vertical lever Y,which is pivoted by a pivot-pin 29 near its middle to the standard B.The lower end of this lever Y is connected by a horizontal pivot-pin 30to a'link 31, which is connected by a vertical pivot-pin 32 to a secondlink 33, which in turn is connected by a vertical pivot-pin 34 to ahorizontally-swinging pawl-lever Z, which lies flat on the bedplate Aand is pivoted thereto by a vertical pivot 35. (See Fig. 2.) Midwaybetween its two pivots 34 35 the pawl lever carries a spring-pressedpawl 36, which engages a horizontally-disposed ratchet-wheel 37, (seeFig. 1,) which lies flat just above the bed-plate A and which rotates ona vertical stud 38, (see Fig. 17,) fixed to the bed-plate. Theratchetwheel is turned step by step in the same direction, (indicated bythe arrow 39, Fig. 2, and is prevented from backward rotation by aspring-detent 40, Fig. 1. Rigid with the ratchet-wheel, Fig. 17, is adisk 41, which carries on its upper face an eccentrically and fixedlylocated three-cornered cam-stud 42, so that as the disk rotates thecam-stud travels in a circular path. This cam-stud enters the elongatedslot 43 of a slotted yoke 44, having a straight stem 45, slidinglongitudinally in guide-apertures of a fixed guide-bracket 46. This yoke44 is connected by a'horizontallyswinging link 47 to the outer end of alever 48, which swings horizontally on a fixed vertical stud 49 on thebed-plate. The inner end of this lever is connected with thework-carrier O, which has a vertical pin 50, (see Fig. 18,) around whichis a sleeve 51, upon which turns a block 52, sliding in a rectangularslot 53 in the lever 48, whereby a connection is provided whichaccommodates the swinging movement of the lever to the rectilinear andlateral movements of the carrier.

The disk 41 has at its periphery cog-teeth, converting it into a gear,and it meshes with an idle-pinion 54, which turns on a fixed verticalstud 55 on the bed-plate. (See Fig. 19.) The hub 56 of the pinion 54serves as the fulcrum-stud of a swinging plate 57, which is connectedwith the laterally-sliding plate WV The plate 57 has also a rectangularaperture 59, through which extends a vertical stud 60, fixed to thebed-plate A, upon which turns a gear-wheel 61, meshing with the pinion54. Fast to the under side of the gear 61 is a two-cornered cam 62,(similar to the cam J having dwells 63 64 and inclines or corners 65 66,said cam 62 fitting within the aperture 59 of the swinging plate 57.

The cam X on the main shaft swings the lever Y back and forth, therebyswinging the pawl-lever Z. The two links 31 33 constitute a gimbal oruniversal connection between the levers Y Z, compensating for-the arcsin different planes in which they swing. The pawl 36 moves the disk 41intermittently in the same direction, thereby causing the cam-stud 42 totravel in a circularpath. This intermittent circular movement imparts anintermittent rectilinear movement first forward and then back to theyoke 44 by reason of the elongation of its slot 43. The intermittentforward and back movements of the yoke 44 are transmitted to the carrier0 by the link 47 and lever 48. Since the intermittent or 'step-by-stepmovement of the carrier is thus received from a cam on the main shaftwhich drives the needle-bar, the movements can be timed so as to occurwhen the needle is out of the work by properly positioning the cam X onthe main shaft relatively to the location of the crank-pin c, whichdrives the needlebar. While the work-carrier is thus being operated, thegear 61 is being given a step-bystep rotation, thus turning its cam 62within the aperture 59 of the plate 57. While the work-carrier is beingmoved forward under the influence of the cam-stud 42 and the firststraight side of the buttonhole is being stitched, the major dwell 63has been in contact with the outer margin 67 of said aperture, therebymaintaining the bottom plate W and with it the carrier 0 in theirposition nearest the front (regarding the part of'the machine at whichthe gear61 is located as the front) of the machine. when, however, thecarrier reaches the forward limit of its motion, the cam 62 has so farturned as to bring the cam rise or corner 65 into cooperative relationwith the inner margin 68 of the slot 59, whereupon the plate 57 is swunginwardly and the workcarrier is moved laterally and the first bar isstitched. Then while the major dwell 63 is in contact with the innermargin 68 of the slot 59 the work-carrier remains in its inwardposition, during which period the second straight side of. thebuttonhole is stitched.

When, however, the second straight side is completed, the cam-rise 65 isbrought into cooperative relation with the outer margin 67 of the slot59, whereupon the plate 57 and work-carrier O are restored to theiroriginal positions.

Since the rotary motion of the cam 62is derived from the disk 41, whichhas a uniform rotary motion, and since the cam-stud 42 on said disk islikewise a uniformly-rotating stud, it would follow if the stud weresimply IIO a circular stud within the slotted yoke 43 that not onlywould the longitudinal feed of the work continue during the formation ofthe] bars, but also the stitches of the straight sides of the buttonholewould be unequally spaced, since the successive steps of thelongitudinal progression of the yoke, and hence of the work-carrier,would vary proportionately to the difference in the lengths of the sidesof the successive arcs through which the stud travels. To properly formthe side and bar stitches of the buttonhole, it is hence necessary notonly that the uniform rotary move ment of the disk 41 should beconverted into uniform reciprocatory movement for the work-carrier, butalso that the reciprocation of the carrier shall wholly cease during thelateral movement of the carrier while the bars are being formed. Theseresults are achievedin an exceedingly simple manner by the shape of thecam-stud 4:2. This stud is not circular in outline, but is cam-shaped,as is best shown in diagram Figs. 21 to 21-. The cam-stud has an apex69, two heels 71 and 73, and three curved sides 7 0, 72, and 7-;ttherebetween. The apex 69 is at the point most remote from the axis 38of the disk 11. The curved side 72 is nearest to the axis 38 and at itstangential point is at right angles to the axis. The heels 71 and 73 areat equal distances on opposite sides of the radial line intersecting theapex and axis. The outline of the cam-stud is hence approximately anisosceles triangle having rounded corners and sides, the sides beingwholly within a circle tangential to the apex and heels.

Now it will be noted that while the camstud during one rotation of thedisk 41 performs a revolution around the axis of the disk it alsoperforms a rotation on its own axis within the slot of the yoke 44:. Themotion of the cam-stud in this respect is similar to that of the moon inits revolution around the earth. The result is that during each completerevolution of the cam-stud its apex, heels, and curved sides each comein contact successively with both margins 180 and 181 of the slot of theyoke 44.

Assume now as a starting-point that the camstud 12 occupies the positionshown in Fig. 21, with the radial line intersecting its apex and theaxis 38 perpendicular to the line of reciprocation 182 182 of theyoke,and that the cam-stud is revolving in the direction of the arrow39. If the cam-stud were truly circular,it would follow thatin theposition shown in Fig. 21 the yoke would be given its maximum extent ofmovement; but with the improved cam -stud the extent of movement whichwould otherwise be produced by the revolution of the cam-stud isdiminished by reason of the circumstance that the cam-stud turns in theslot of the yoke, so that the forward curved side rolls along the margin180 of the yoke-slot. As the consequence of this rolling motion theadvance of the yoke is retarded by an amount equal to the departure ofthe side 70 from a circumscribed circle tangential to the apex andcorners. \Vhen, however, the cam stud in its revolution around the axis38 passes the point where its average travel is equal to the average(and constant) travel of the slotted yoke-that is to say, when the anglebetween the radial line intersecting the apex 69 and axis 38(hereinafter called the radius of the cam-stud and the line 182 182 isless than sixty degreesthe cam-stud advances the slotted arm morerapidly than a circular stud would do, since as the side 7 0 approachesthe apex it-approaches the circumscribed circle, and when the advance ofthe slotted yoke due to the revolution of the cam-stud grows still lessthe loss is compensated, as indicated in Fig. 22, by

the apex itself coming in contact with the margin 180. As soon, however,as the camstud reaches the position shown in Fig. 23, where its radiuscoincides with the line 182 182, not only does the outward travel of theslotted yoke wholly cease, but also the slotted yoke remains for a timewholly stationary. This is due to the fact that immediately afterpassing the position of Fig. 23 the curved side 72 of the cam-stud rollsalong the margin 181 of the yoke-slot without moving the yoke, and it isnot until the forward heel 71 begins to act on the margin 181, as shownin Fig. 2 1, that the reverse movement of the slotted yoke begins. It isduring this quiescence of the yoke that the bar at one end of thebuttonhole is formed.

From the position shown in Fig. 24 around in the direction of arrow 39to the position shown in Fig. 21 the action is merely a repetition ofthe actions already described. It will be noted that the apex 69,forwardcurved side 70, forward heel 71, and curved side 72 are the operativeparts of the cam-stud, the rear heel 73 and side 74 having merely thefunction of enabling the cam-stud to always fill the slot of the yokeand so prevent any loose play thereof.

Cutting mechanism.Occupying the place in the needle-bar bracket D of thepresserbar of an ordinary sewing-m achine is the movable cutter carryingbar 7 5. This ,bar is mounted so as to be capable of verticallongitudinal reciprocation and is normally upheld by a spring 76. It isprevented from rotary movement bya square stud 77, working in arectilinear way 78 in the bracket D. (See Figs. 30 and 31.) At the lowerend of the cutter-bar 7 5, below the bracket D, it carries a horizontalplate or cutter-carrier 7 9, fixed to it, said carrier being located tothe rear of theneedlebar. Rigidly but removably connected to this plateis the knife or cutter 80, (see Fig. 25,) which extends vertically andhas a shear cutting edge in line with the buttonhole at an angle to thehorizontal. (30- operating with this knife is a slit 81 (see Fig. 6) inthe bed-plate adjacent to the plate-eye d and extending rearwardlytherefrom. 'Pivoted at 82 to the carrier 79 is a horizontallyswingingleveror movable tappet 83, (see Fig. 2,) the forward end of whichcooperates with a projecting stud or pin 84:, carried by the needle-barH. When the tappet 83 is in its operative (but abnormal) position, it islocated beneath but directly in the path of the stud 84, the tappet andstud thus constituting a coupling between the needle-bar and thecutter-carrier, which is normally uncoupled, but which is coupled whenthe cutter is to become operative. Consequently when the parts of saidcoupling are coupled the needle-bar when it descends carries with it thetappet 83, carrier 79,. knife 80, and cutter-bar 75, thus causing theknife to descend through the slit 81, and thereby cutting thebuttonhole-slit in the work. \Vhen thence- ICC . hole is directlybeneath the knife.

dle-bar again rises, the cutter is restored to its normal position bythe spring 76. The machine is so timed that the knife descends onlyafter the stitching is completed and when the work is in such positionthat the space between the two straight sides of the button- Thecutter-operating tappet 83 consequently occupies its operative positionmomentarily only during the cutting of one buttonhole-slit and just longenough to permit the proper descent-of the knife. The tail end of thetap pct 83 has an elongated slot 85, Fig. 2, which is entered andoccupied by a vertical operating-rod 86 long enough to cooperate withthe tappet 83 during its up-and-down excursion. This rod extends throughan elongated lateral slot 87 in the bed-plate and is connected rigidlybeneath the bed-plate to a sliding bar 88, Figs. 3 and 26, which extendsat right angles to the shuttle-shaft G and is adapted to slide laterallyat right angles to said shaft G in suitable guides. This bar 88 is movedoutwardly in the direction of arrow 89 for the purpose of moving thelever 83 into its operative abnormal position by a spring 90 and ismoved in the opposite direction by a cam 91 on the shuttle-shaft G. Thebar 88 is held in its normal position against the action of spring 90 bya trip-lever or movable trip 92, which is pivotally connected with thebedplate. The lower end of this trip normally occupies a retaining-notch93 in said bar and is held therein by a spring 94. This trip 92 extendsthrough and above the bed-plate A in close proximity to the gear 61 andhas a camincline 95 on its upper end. The cam-incline 95 is located inthe path of a tappet 96, fixed to the gear 61 at such position as toinsure the proper timing of its action. At the proper instant the tappet96 encounters the cam-incline 95, thus swinging the trip 92 011 itspivot and-removing it from the notch 93 in bar 88. The bar is theninstantly shifted by the quick action of spring 90, which is preferablya leafspring, with its free end bearing against a shoulder 97 on the bar88. The bar is thus moved outwardly in the directlon of arrow 89,carrying with it the rod 86 and the tail end of lever 83, therebybringing the front end of said lever into the path of the stud 84 on theneedle-bar. It is exceedingly important that the bar 88 should beshifted instantaneously to bring the lever 83 into operation, since themovement must be accomplished during the very brief interval while thestud 84: is above the lever 83. Before the needlebar descends a secondtime the cam 91 on the shuttle-shaft G, which rotates at the same rateas the main shaft E, restores the parts to their normal inactivepositions, the trip 92 automatically under the influence of its spring94 catching in the retaining-notch 93 of the bar 88, the tappet 96 inthe meanwhile having moved beyond and out of the way of the trip.

The action ofthe cutter, it will be noted, is wholly automatic.

Stopping mechanism.Immediately afterthe knife has cut thebuttonhole-slit and after it has been restored to its normal positionand before the needle-bar again descends the machine is automaticallystopped. The initiating instrumentality of the stop-motion is astop-tappet 98 on the disk 41, (a location which enables the stopping tobe accurately timed,) which at the proper instant comes in contact withthe nose 99 (see Fig. 2) of a stop trip-lever 100, which extendshorizontally to the rear and is pivoted at 101 to the bed-plate.

The drive-pulley F is loosely mounted on the main shaft E, and betweensaid pulley and the standard B is a drum 102, fast to the drive-shaft.The drive-pulley F and drum 102 are operatively connected by a clutchcomprising a fixed member 103 and a movable member 104:. The fixedmember 103 is a fixed stud on the inner face of the pulley F, from whichit projects horizontally parallel with the shaft E at a radial distancefrom the axis of said shaft slightly greater than the radius of the drum102. (See Figs. 3 and 27.) Consequently if the drum were not otherwiseprovided it would be entirelyavoided by the stud 103, and consequentlythe pulley F would rotate freely on the shaft E without imparting anymotion thereto. The movable clutch member 104 consists of a pawl whichis pivoted at its tail end.(see Fig. 27) by a horizontal pivot 105 in arecess 106 in the periphery of the drum 102.

Then the pawl 104 is in its abnormal inactive position, it lies whollywithin the recess 106, and its outer face is. concentric with the axisof the drum 102, constituting a portion of the peripheryof the drum, sothat the stud 103 passes freely over it. The pawl, however,normallyoccupies an active position, with its free end projecting beyond theperiphery of the drum in the path of the stud 103, so that the drum andwith it the shaft E are rotated with the pulley F. The pawl ismaintained in its outer active position by a coiled spring 107, locatedbetween it and the bottom of the recess 106, and the extent of itsoutward movement is limited by a link 108, pivoted to the pawl andhaving a slot 109, which is entered by a pin 110, fixed on the drum, thelength of the slot 109 determining the extent of movement of the pawl.

In order to stop the motion of the machine, it is only necessary to pushthe pawl 104 inward out of the path of the stud 103 and to maintain itin such inward position. For this purpose the outer face of the pawl isprovided with a depressed portion 111, (see Fig.

28,) which is flush with the periphery of the drum 102 when the pawl isin its projecting active position, and this depressedportion of its faceterminates at the free end of the pawl in a cam-rise 112, which inclinesfrom the portion 111 outwardly and terminates in a face 113 flush withthe outer face of the pawl. The drum has a locking-notch 11% in itsperiphery communicating with the recess 106 and having one wall in thesame plane with the wall of said recess opposite the free end of thepawl. The drum also has adjacent to the notch 114 a projecting stop-stud115, the stop-face 116 of which is in a radial plane intersecting theaxis of the shaft E and flush with the wall common to both the recessand notch-that is to say, the notch and recess both terminate at thestop 115 and at the free end of the pawl. The cam 112, notch 114, andstop 115 are all beyond the reach of the stud 103 on the pulley F.

Beneath the drum 102 is a horizontally-extending lever 117, pivoted toahorizontal stud 118 on the standard B and having near one end astop-nose 119 and alongside thereof a tappet 120, both of which projecttoward the axis of the shaft E, the nose 119, however, projectingfarther than the tappet 120. When the machine is to he stopped, thelever 117 occupies such a position that its nose 11.) bears against theperiphery of the drum 102, being pressed against the same by a spring121. The rotating drum 102 being then rotated in the direction of arrow122, the cam-rise 112 first encounters the tappet 120, which is then inits path, and thereby the pawl 104 is pressed inwardly out of the pathof the stud 103 on pulley F, so that as the pulley continues itsrotation its stud passes freely over the pawl 104. Immediately after thepawl has been thus depressed the notch 114 on the drum is brought intoregister with the locking-nose 119 on the lever 117, and the spring 121forces the nose into the notch, thus holding the drum and the shaft Efrom further rotation. In case the speed and momentum of the drum shouldbe so great as to endanger carrying the nose 119 over-the notch 114before the spring 121 has time to act the nose would encounter thestop-stud 115, thereby positively arresting the motion of the drum andinsuring the dropping of the nose into the notch. While the nose 119 isin the notch 114, the tappet 120 bears against the elevated face ordwell 113 of the cam-rise 112, thereby holding the pawl 104 securely inthe recess 106 out of the path of the stud on the pulley F.

The connection between the stop-lever 117 and stop trip-lever 100 is asfollows: 123 is a lever pivoted at one end by pivot 124 (see Fig. 1) tothe overhanging arm 0, extending rearwardly therefrom and having at itsfree rear end an elongated slot 125, which is entered and occupied by astud 126 at the working end of the stop-lever 117. Depending from andpivoted by pivot 127 to lever 123,near the middle thereof, is a verticalrod 128,which extends downwardlythrough a guide-aperture in thebed-plate to below the bed-plate. This rod 128 has a catch shoulder orlip 129, formed by a collar 130 on the rod 128 or otherwise, the collarbeing in effect simply a diametricallyenlarged portion of the rod.Cooperatin g with the catch-lip 129 is a horizontally-extending rod 131,extending through guide-apertures in the standard B and pivotallyconnected by pivot 132 to the middle part of the trip-lever 100. The rod131 is normally held bya spring 133 with its free end engaging the lip129,at which time also, by the connection between rod 131 and trip-lever100, the nose 99. of the trip-lever is maintained in the path of thetripping-tappet 98 on the disk 41. The spring 133 tends to move the rod131 in the direction of the arrow 134; but its movement is limited inthat direction by its free end encountering the body of the rod 128.\Vhen the lip 129 is thus engaged by the catch-rod 131, the working endof the lever117 is held away from the drum 102 with its nose 119 andtappet 120 entirely out of the paths of the notch 114, stop 115, andcam-rise 112. \Vhen, however, the stitching of the buttonhole iscompleted, immediately after the knife has performed its operativeexcursion, the tappet 98 encounters the nose 99 on the trip-lever 100,moving said trip-lever in the direction of arrow 135, (see Fig. 2,)thereby moving the catch-rod 131 (against the resistance of its spring133) out of engagement with the lip 129, whereby the connecting-rod 128,lever 123, and stop-lever 117 are left free to the action of the spring121, which thereupon moves the stop-lever into operative relation withthe drum 102. The stop-motion mechanism is so timed that after thetripping occurs the shaft E rotates far enough before stopping to carrythe tappet 98 beyond and out of the way of the nose 99, so that thestoppingmechanism can be readily restored to its normal inoperativeposition.

When the stopping has been effected, the stop-lever 117 is maintained inlooking position by the spring 121 and in restorative position by thefree end of the catch-rod fi resting against the raised portion of theconnecting-rod 128. i

To again set the machine in motion, it is necessary simply to depressthe connecting rod 128 so that its lip 129 comes below the free end ofthe catch-rod 131, which thereupon, under the action of the spring 133,moves out above the lip 129 and so holds the rod 128 depressed. Thedepression of the rod 128 swings the working end of the stoplever 117downward against the tension of spring 121, thereby permitting the pawl104 to resume its active position in the path of the stud 103 on thedrive-pulley F. The restoring movement of the catch-rod 131 alsorestores the nose 99 into the path of the tappet 98.

The connecting-rod 128 can be conveniently depressed by connecting itsend beneath the bed-plate A to a treadle, so that the hands of theoperator are left free to manipulate the work.

tached to the trip-lever 100.

A special relation between the coactin g faces 200 and 201 of the cluteh members 104 and 103 requires mention. If these faces were in aradial plane intersecting the axis of the shaft E, the stop-motion wouldnot work properly, since with such an arrangement in order that the pawl104 might swing into the recess 106 out of the way of the stud 103 itwould be necessary to move the stud backwardly against the force of thedriving power, and if the effective force of this power should begreater than the force of the spring 121 the pawl 104 would not be movedinto the recess 106 at all. To obviate this difficulty, the face 200 ofthe pawl is beveled so as to lie in av plane within (or coincident with)an are having the center 105 of the pawl, and the face 201 of the stud103 is correspondingly beveled. As a consequence the pawl 104 swingsfreely inward when acted upon by the tappet 120 without necessitatin gany retrogression of the stud 1.03.

Tension-release.After the completion of a buttonhole and after themachine has been stopped the operator opens the work-clamp by depressingthe handle V of the clamp rockframe S, and in order that the tension onthe thread may be released to facilitate the shifting of the work to theposition for the next buttonhole or for removing the work means areprovided for automatically releasing the tension on the needle-threadsimultaneously with opening the clamp.

The tension device may be of any of the well-known kinds. There is showna tension composed of two tension-plates 137, between which the threadpasses on the way to the needle and which are loosely strung on a spin:

dle-138. A spring 139 surrounds the spindle and gives the desiredtension, the force of the spring being regulated by a nut 140. Intercsed between the outer plate 137 and the spring and loosely surroundingthe spindle 138 is a tension-lever 141, having at its middle afulcrum-bar 142, adapted to bear against the bracket D. A releasing-rod143, extending horizontally through guide-apertures in the bracket D,extends loosely through an aperture in the lower end of thetension-lever 141. The end of the rod 143, which extends through thelever 141, is screw-threaded, and outside of the lever it carries anadjustable stop 144 and jam-nut 145. At its other end the releasing-rod143 has a strap with an elongated slot 146, which is entered andoccupied by a vertically-extending rod 147 ,fixed to rockframe S. When,therefore, the rock-frame is swung to open the work-clamp, thereleasing-rod 143 is moved to the left in the. direction of arrow 148.(See Fig. 31.) Its stop 144 is thereby brought against the lower end ofthe tension 141, which is thereupon tilted on its fulcrum, whereby thetension-spring 130 is moved out of cooperative relation with thetension-plates 137, and thetension on the thread is hence removed.

The slot 146 is of sufficient length to accommodate the to-and-froexcursion of the rod 147 with the work-carrier. The rod 147 is preventedfrom tilting on its axis by a squared guide-pin 149 thereon sliding inthe rectangular way 78.

Quick-motion meclzcmism.-ln case a thread should break during thestitching of a buttonhole it is desirable to at once stop the machineand to quickly bring the buttonhole to the point where the thread broketo resume stitching. This is effected by a key 150, having cross-handle151, said key fitting over a pintle 152, extending upwardly from thestud or boss on which the gear 61 turns. This key has two lugs 153,adapted to engage two upwardly-proj ectin g studs 154 on the gear 61.When the key is in place, by turning it so as to turn the gear 61forward said gear 61, pinion 54, and disk 41 are turned to any desiredextent, thus moving the carrier 0 to the desired position. During thismovement the pawl 36 and detent 40 both slip on the ratchet 37, so thatthe movement of the carrier 0 is rendered wholly independent of theneedlestitching mechanism. This key also can be used to bring thecarrier to its proper starting position at any time when it may bedisplaced therefrom.

Acljusting mechanism-4P0 adjust the length of the buttonhole, it is onlynecessary to adjust the cam-stud 42 radially on the disk 41. The greaterthe eccentricity of the camstud 42 the greater the diameter of thecircle it describes, and consequently the greater the length of thebuttonhole. To adjust the camstud, the disk has fixed on itsupper face(see Figs. 16 and 17) a projecting guide 155, having a guide-slot 156,extending radially outward from the center of the disk, said groovehaving overhanging margins 157. The cam-stud 42 rests on the guide 155and has downwardly-projecting legs 158, which grasp the guide 155 onboth sides, so that the camstud is firmly held on the guide. Beneath themargins 157 is a nut 159, and an adjusting-screw 160, passing through anaperture in the cam-stud and the slot 156, taps into the nut 159. Byloosening the screw 160 the cam-stud can he slid radially along theguide 155 to any desired position. Bythen tightening the screw 160 thenut 159 is jammed against the under sides of the margins 157, therebylocking the cam-stud in position.

To adjust the number of stitches to the inchthat is to say, the spacesbetween adjacent stitches-it is sufficient to govern the rapidity of thefeed of the carrier 0, and this is governed by adjusting the pivot 29 ofthe lever Y to and from the shaft E, whereby the extent of movement ofits lower end, and hence the feed of the ratchet-wheel 37, iscontrolled.The lever Y has a rectangular aperture 161, Figs. 14 and 15, in whichslides a block 162, having a tailpiece 163, into which taps a screw 164,extending through a slot 165 in the lever Y, whereby the block 162 isclamped in any desired position on the lever. The block 162 has abearing-sleeve, through which extends the pivot-pin 29. Said pin extendsthrough a vertical slot 166 in the stand-.

ard B, and its inner end, which is screw threaded, taps into alocking-nut 167 inside of the standard. Byloosening screw 164: and pin29 the block 162 can be adjusted to and from the shaft E,thus adjustingthe pivot on which lever Y swings, and on tightening the said screw andpin the pivot is maintained in position. I

The adjustment of the distance between the two straight sides of thebuttonhole-stitching is effected by adjusting the extent of lateralmovem ent of the carrier bottom plate \V. The swinging plate 57 has acurved slot 168, Figs. 19 and 20, concentric with the pivot-pin 169between the plate WV and link 58. The pivot-pin 170, (screw-threaded atits lower end,) between links 58 and plate 57, extends through the slot168 and is fastened to said plate 57 by a nut 171. By adjusting thepivot-pin 170 in slot 168 its distance from the center of oscillation(the stud 55) of plate 57 is varied, and hence the extent of lateraltravel of the work-carrier is adjusted.

The adjustment of the bight of each stitch is effected by varying theextent of lateral oscillation of the needle-bar H, and this is done byadjusting the pivot-pin h of the lever K to and from the auxiliary shaftI. Depending from the bracket D is a bracket 172, having a rectangularopening or slot 17 3. (See 'Figs. 8 to 12.) In this slot a bearingblock17 1 slides vertically to and from the shaft 1. The pivot-pin it rocksin this bearing-block. The pivot-pin has an integral shoulder 175between it and the lever K, and

- its squared screw-threaded shank extends through a rectangular slot176 in the lever K, beyond which it projects sufficiently to receive aclamping-nut 177. By loosening this nut the pivot-pin h and itsbearing-block are adjusted and by tightening the nut the lever K isclamped between the shoulder 176 and the nut 177.

To provide for cutting buttonhole-slits of different lengths, the knifeis made removable, so that knives of different lengths may be attachedto the plate 79. The knife 80 is held in place by a plate 178 and screws179. (See Fig. 25.) I

Several features of the invention I regard as especially important. Thelateral vibration of the needle and its use in connection with thesimple longitudinal and lateral feed of the work is of specialimportance, both on account of the simplicity of construction andeffectiveness of operation and because the .work can be placed straightand without folding in the machine and there is no turning of the workduring the stitching operation.

The mode of bringing the cutter into operation by an instantaneousmovement is also of especial importance. ltthus becomes possible tooperate the cutter directly from the needle-bar, thus securing accuracyin cutting the buttonhole-slit and great simplicity in the cuttingmechanism.

The stop-motion and the means for converting uniform rotary motion intouniform reciprocatory movement are also features of. special importanceand utility in the machine.

The special mention of these features is not to be construed, however,as detracting from the importance of the other features of the inventionwhich have been described.

The machine as a whole is rapid and effective in operation and makeshandsome, perfect, and strong buttonholes, and it is simple inconstruction, considering its capabilities,

and is not liable to get vout of order.

Manyof the details of the machine can be altered and modified withoutdeparting from the spirit of the invention, and the specific embodimentof the invention illustrated and described is to be considered simply asillustrative of the invention and as exhibiting what I consider atpresent as the best embodiment of the invention when appliedv to aStandard sewing-machine.

The bed-plate A has a special plate in which the eye d and slit 81 arelocated. This plate consists of .two parts 202 202, adjustably attachedto the bed-plate, so as to be movable a bottom slide, in the slot ofwhich yoke said cam-stud Y enters, in combination with a rotating cam:moving in unison with said cam-stud, said cam having two long dwells ofdifferent radii connected by abrupt rises, and a movable slotted platein the slot of which said cam en 7 ters, said slotted plate beingoperatively connected with said carrier-plate, substantially as setforth.

2. The work-carrier comprising a laterallymovable bottom plate and anupper slide movable lengthwise on said bottom plate, the rotatingtoothed disk having a step-by-ste p rotation, the triangular cam-studeccentrically located on said disk, and the rectilinearlyreciprocatingslotted yoke operatively connected with said slide in the slot of whichsaid cam-stud enters, in combination with the idle-pinion engaging saidtoothed disk, the swinging slotted plate swinging on the same axis asthat of said idle-pinion, said slotted plate being operatively connectedwith said work-carrier bottom plate, and a gear engaging saididle-pinion and having a cam entering the slot of said swinging slottedplate,

said cam having two dwells of different radii united by abrupt rises,substantially as set forth.

3. The driving-pulley, the stud thereon, the driven drum having a recessand a notch therein, a pawl pivoted to said drum and occupying saidrecess, a spring holding said pawl outward in the path of said stud,said pawl having a cam-incline then exterior to the periphery of saiddrum out of the path of said stud, in combination with a movable noseand tappet always out of the path of said stud and normally out of thepaths of said notch and camincline, and means for moving said nose intothe path of said notch and said tappetinto the path of said cam-incline,substantially as set forth.

4. The driving-pulley, the stud thereon, the driven drum having a recessand a notch therein and a projecting stop alongside of said notch, apawl pivoted to said drum and occupyin g said recess, and a springnormally holding said pawl beyond the periphery of said drum and in thepath of said stud, said pawl having a cam-incline then exterior to theperiphery of said drum but out of the path of said stud, in combinationwith a movable nose and tappet normallyv held out of the paths of saidnotch, stop, and cam-incline, and means for releasing said nose andtappet, and a spring for bringing said nose into the path of said studand notch and said tappet into the path of said cam-incline, substan--tially as set forth.

5. The drum, and the movable pawl, in combination with the slotted link,and pin, for limiting the movement of said pawl, substantially as setforth. I

6. The main shaft E, drive-pulley F, drum 102 with notch 114, stud 103,and'pawl 104, lever117, with nose 119 and tappet 120, spring 121, lever123, and connecting-rod 128 with catch 129, in combination with therotating disk 41 with stop-tappet 98, trip-lever 100 with nose 99,catch-rod 131, and spring 133, sub

stantially as set forth.

7. The main shaft E, drive-pulley F, drum 102 with notch 114, stud 103and pawl 104,

lever 117 with nose 119 and tappet 120, spring 121, lever 123, andconnecting-rod 128 with catch 129 and enlargement 130, in combinationwith the rotating disk 41 with stop-tappet 98, trip-lever 100 with nose99, catch-rod 131, and spring 133, substantially as set forth.

8. For adjusting the number of stitches to the inch, the operating-leverof the feeding mechanism having twoslots 161, and 165, the block 162adjustable in said slot 161, said block having a tailpiece 163overlapping said slot 165, a set-screw passing through said slot 165 andtapping into said tailpiece, in combination with an adjustable pivot-pinupon which said block 162 turns, substantially as set forth.

9. For adjusting the number of stitches to the inch,'the operating-leverof the feeding mechanism having two slots 161 and 165, the block 162adjustable in said slot 161, said block having a tailpiece 163overlapping said slot 165, a set-screw passing through said slot 165 andtapping into said tailpiece, in combination with the standard B, havingslot 166, a nut 167 within the standard, and an ad j ustable pivot-piuscrewing into said 11 ut 167, upon which pin said block 162 isjournaled, substantially as set forth.

10. The reciprocating work-carrier, the rotating operating-disk 41,having radial guide 155, with radial slot 156, with margins 157, incombination with movable stud 42 having legs 158 straddling said guide155, the movable nut 159 below said margins,and the screw 160 passingthrough said stud and slot, and tapping into said nut, substantially asset forth. 1

11. The vertically-movable cutter-bar 75, spring 76, for elevating thesame, carrier 79, at the lower end of the bar 75, cutter 80, on saidcarrier, and horizontally-swinging tappet 83, pivoted on said carrierand having slot 85, in combination with the bed-plate having slot 87,sliding bar 88, beneath said bed-plate, and vertical rod 86 attached tosaid bar 88 and extending upwardly through said slots87 and 85, andmeans for moving said sliding bar back and forth, substantially as setforth.

In witness whereof I have hereunto signed myname in the presence of twosubscribing witnesses.

JULIUS O. GOODWLN.

Witnesses:

JNo. S. HENKELS, J. CAMPBELL LANCASTER.

